250 Common Cranes, 9 Black Storks and 3 Black Shouldered Kites

Sunday was the day I had waited for almost since we left the area last year, because we were to visit the northern marshes of the Coto Donana, an area unsurpassed for birding by any place I have ever visited in Europe. We started our day by driving along the Corredor Verde. Here we found Woodlarks, Cattle Egrets, a Black Stork, a Night Heron roost of at least 100 birds and a stunning Black-shouldered Kite, which performed admirably its hovering, paper plane like flight, before alighting in a tree to allow us excellent views.

Next we called in at Canada la Rianzula. The scene was breathtaking. At least 3000 Black-winged Stilts and 500 Greater Flamingoes were almost forgotten by the jaw dropping spectacle of at least 8000 Shoveler.

From here it was onto the rice paddies of Isla Mayor, an area so good that it was no surprise to find a flock of nine Black Storks in a field, and hundreds of White Storks. We turned right in the town, and headed for Casa Bombas, a large white pumping station which is passed by birders on their way to the Valverde centre. In this area we found three Hen Harriers, including a stunning male, several Marsh Harriers and our first Common Cranes of the day. Three were feeding in a field, and while we watched them, another nine flew directly over our heads. In the distance, at least 500 White storks were feeding.

We pushed on towards Veta Hornito. Suddenly I saw what I had been looking for. In the distance I could see large birds landing. We had found a Common Crane flock. We drove on for another mile or so, until eventually we were directly opposite them, just a couple of hundred yards away. I counted about 250 birds. They were clearly a little nervous about our presence, because occasionally the whole flock would raise their heads and look at us, but generally they seemed unconcerned and fed together like a flock of huge geese. Then suddenly and unexpectedly, first one bird, then two, then the whole flock took to the air with calls which very much resembled geese, and they flew away into the distance. An unforgetable experience.

By now, we had also started to see Great White Egrets, which totalled about six birds, and another couple of Black Storks. Finally, as dusk approached, we found another two Black-shouldered Kites. Once more Donana did not disappoint.